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Eating late

The city dines early for Spain, and by half past eleven many kitchens shut. But late life exists for arrivals and theater exits.

The ones that don't close

Hotel kitchens, some downtown tapas bars and market counters with modern hours serve until midnight and beyond. The night zones — Born and Raval — hold the best late hot-plate options.

The correct late dinner

After twelve, the menu tilts informal: tapas, neighborhood burgers and serious kebabs. Ordering rice at midnight is a fantasy no serious local will fulfill.

The midnight breakfast

The classic Barcelona alternative: churros with chocolate at the night-shift granjas. Late dinner and dessert in one, with the after-party queue forming a community.